Belt - 800 belt on a 600/500SS - Don't do it.
Belt - Deflection adjusted highest and belt still low
Belt - Gap between belt and primary sheaves?
BELT - Application Chart - Dimensions & Part Numbers
Belt Deflection recommendation and video
Belt - 800 belt on a 600/500SS - Don't do it.
Question) I hear about putting a 166 (800 belt) on my 500SS, will it last longer?
Answer) Don't put an 800 belt on a 600 clutch. An 800 primary has a forged sheave. The 600/500SS is a cast sheave. The 800 belt is a harder compound belt and is designed to run on a forged sheave. The non-800 belt is softer compound and designed for cast sheaves.
What happens is the 800 belt will eventually wear a groove into the sheave at the "shift range" that you normally drive at, literally putting a dished groove on the cast sheaves. Some racers use an 800 belt on a cast sheave because it allows the engine to accelerate quicker from engagement rpms to peak rpm. I would not advise that kind of blend on a consumer sled.
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Belt - Deflection adjusted highest and belt still low
Question)One other issue I have is that the belt height adjustment in the secondary is maxed out even with a new belt and it is still slightly low. Is there a fix for this?
Answer)Yes there is a fix, rather an adjustment. Open up the secondary, there are 2 shims inside of it and can remove one shim then re-assemble and re-calibrate the belt deflection.
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Belt - Gap between belt and primary sheaves?
Question) How much of a gap should there be between the Primary halves and the belt? this is sitting without the engine running with the belt pushed to one side, how much of a distance should there be between the edge of belt and the primary sheave?
Answer) With a new belt on at 1.48 inches, anywhere from .020 I have seen up to .080 inches. I believe .050 with a new belt is about average (my experiences)
Belt - Application chart - Dimensions and Part Numbers
Belt Deflection recommendation and video
-Belts can vary in length 1/4" -+ from spec. Years ago I measured an 8607 that was 5/8 inch longer than spec.
-Owners can choose belts with different lengths - refer to the Skidoo belt application chart above.
The video I linked below is pretty well what I set mine like or any other sled up for good all around deflection. What you are doing by setting this kind of deflection is eliminating a calibration problem that can come from the varying belt length. You are making sure that the right tension is going to be measured regardless of belt length or width.
The sled is with the track off the ground. Engine idling if the track can turn slowly or the track jerks a little bit, trying to turn, or does not turn however you can grab a track lug with your index finger thus pulling the track around - all while the engine is idling.
On the mxz/rev chassis with HPV secondary (RER) as the cam number increase, the belt tension will get tighter.
With this kind of deflection I never let my engine idle too long. There are 4~5 cogs wrapped around the stub of the primary and the temperature gets high localized in that area. Excessive idling contributes to why belts will blow about 4~5 cogs off and you hear that "puk puk puk" just before the belt incinerates.
The temperature in that localized area will change the composition of the rubber making it a harder material; eventually separation will happen....BoOm!
