Click - Know your secondary clutch
My kits are "Owner built" - Mountain riders designed my clutch kits and I build them by tailoring from their direction. My test guys range from Technical ree riders who extreme explore, poking their way, using GPS through the forest to the hill climbers who do chutes and highmark, never getting in the trees.
I go along for the ride with my packsack full of clutch parts, letting the riders do what they do best and retune the calibration as needed.
The kit calibrations can be tailored with different engagements, primary clutch ramp angles and how you specifically want the sled to pull. I love tuning with mountain riders because they are bar-none the pinnacle of demanding in focus certain areas of performance.
In the final analysis, these kits are only put together by me under the direction of riders with 20+ years of riding experience. They tell me what they wanted, I blended up the calibration for them.
- Stabilizes fluctuating rpms under full throttle.
- (Quick backshift burst) Rpms quicker to recover when cycling the throttle under heavy load at any track speeds
- Cooler system temperatures.
- Slows belt wear ( Use 377, 288, 253 for All REV / XP mountain)
- Higher track mph under full throttle load (average 3~4mph increase)
- Strong engine braking
- Tighter connection between throttle thumb tip and the ground.
- Superb throttle control for sidehilling, stump jumping.
- Poke higher without track poaching.
- Works great with stock gearing
- Accepts gearing changes with little to no tuning
- Increased mileage
- Uses stock belt
- Service after the sale.
- Highest value of technical support on clutch tuning knowledge.
- Kit has a wide scope of capacity, can be tailored to suit particular applications / mods / elevations.
About the DUAL ELEVATION KIT
- Additional primary spring for going from low to high elevation.
- Quick primary spring change for going from low to high elevation.
- Quick flyweight change for going from low to high elevation.
- Ability for long track to short track to run in high elevations with drop-in-n-drive calibration.
- Out front acceleration over stock.
- Normal to see lower cruising rpms under sustained speeds.
- Average 3~4 mph increase over stock at mid 100+mph's. (if you could do 105, now should be able to pull off 108~109)
- Uses stock belt Minimum 391, or 377 from an XP summit or the 288 from any 600RS.XP as the best belt for 800 REV / XP trail or summit trail / climber. Stay away from the 383 with my clutch kit.
- 600/700 Average 3~4 mph increase over stock at mid 90+mph's. (if you could do 95, now should be able to pull off 98~99)
- Uses stock belt for 600/700
- 440 Average 4~5 mph increase over stock at mid 80+mph's. (if you could do 85, now should be able to pull off 89~90)
- Uses stock belt for 440
- Harder acceleration in corner to corner / Point & shoot trail
- Ability for greater throttle control in bumpy conditions (builds confidence)
- Higher track mph in off trail conditions.
- Tighter connection between throttle thumb tip and the ground.
- Works great with stock gearing
- Accepts gearing changes with little to no tuning
- Increased mileage
Step 1. INFORMATION - Information is the key to recieving the correct product. Please read the information below.
Step 2. Check to see if your model is listed in the LOW ELEVATION and HIGH ELEVATION tabs.
Step 3. Once you've decided what kit you require, then go back to the top of the Home page and click on BUILD A KIT .
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GET THE CORRECT HELIX
You are responsible for what secondary is on your sled. I've done my due dilligence to find out the most accurate information to guide you in this process. During the season, I answer 35 to 80 emails/messages per day and the phone rings off the hook so I try to do my part by giving most information as possible to help you get to know what you have before you recieve your parts and I can't remember everything.
No matter what vendor you buy a clutch kit or helix off of , you must do your due dilligence and find out if you will recieve the correct type of helix.
Check your secondary - Click here for illustration
IF you install a roller helix in a button secondary, THEN it will get scratched, literally within 10 feet of moving the sled.
Im telling you right up front - I will not take a damaged helix back, I can't re-sell it as new, not even with a little scratch.
KNOW YOUR SECONDARY CLUTCH
2006 and 2007 are known to have mixed up secondary clutches. Normally the X-Model has a roller however i've seen them come brand new from the dealer with a button secondary. The Adrenaline models should come stock with a button secondary, however delivered from a dealer, I have seen a roller come brand new on an adrenaline.
There are owners of a sled who are the 3rd owner to which at one time a previous owner has changed the button secondary for a roller. My customer not knowing what he had, and not having his own tools, then had a snowmobile service shop install the button helix in a roller. The sled was run and eventually smashed the rollers up and damaged the helix. Now he was in for a new set of rollers and helix and grief from arguing with the service shop of who's going to foot the bill.
There are owners of a sled who are the 3rd owner to which at one time a previous owner has changed the button secondary for a roller. My customer not knowing what he had, and not having his own tools, then had a snowmobile service shop install the button helix in a roller. The sled was run and eventually smashed the rollers up and damaged the helix. Now he was in for a new set of rollers and helix and grief from arguing with the service shop of who's going to foot the bill.
If you have trashed the rollers in the roller secondary there are a few options.
Buy new rollers and get the correct S8R helix with the "R" for roller.
or
Source out a secondary clutch (from ebay motors as an example) try to limit your selection to 2005 and newer for this reason, picture > Removable Spiral lock for the bushing .
Then simply clean up the button helix with sandpaper as best as you can, taking down any high spots, install new buttons and go for a run, calibrating just as if you had the roller secondary. After your day of running, open up the secondary and check clean and go again.
- Know your secondary -
Any of my helixes that say "R" in the designation is a roller helix. (S8R4, S8R7...etc)
The other helixes I have are SMT, SMT2, SMT3 to which are button helix.
Complete the information on the BUILD A KIT page to receive product pricing.
Give as much information as possible about the requirements of your sled.
This information will be used to ensure the best calibration for your individual sled and provide years of trouble free operation.
MODIFICATIONS - I have been fortunate to observe about every engine, track, suspension modification and can offer a calibration for your particular need. Name a head mod, (single / twin / triple) pipe, track change....whatever you can think of, I've probably made a calibration for it that works excellent with quick and little tune.
SOLUTION FOCUS - If you don't see exactly what you are looking for within the products, simply contact me through the BUILD A KIT form and fill out all the details. If there are details missing on the form that you can think of to tell me, apply your details in the comments field at the bottom of the page. I'll try to produce a good recommendation for a solution that best suit your needs.
I can customize the products to fit your specific application. Lets blend your and my tuning experiences to work for you.
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